Crested geckos are best kept in a cage at least 60 cm high and 45 cm deep and 60 cm wide. This can be heated with a basking light above the enclosure and a heat light above the enclosure on a thermostat if the room is not heated to 20c at least. I heat my rooms to approximately 24c and use a UVB light on top, a shade dweller by Arcadia. These work well in a planted terrarium. The plants give the shade to the gecko so it can move down under the leaves or can climb up for more UVB. You should use a heat UVA if your room is cold and have a thermostat probe on top of the terrarium, so that the mesh does not get hot, as crested geckos climb across the underside of the lid on occasions.
To make the base for the Terrarium you need bio balls. These are able to hold moisture and the plant roots can go down to get to the moisture. Over the bio balls you should place some mesh, fit it right to the edges of the terrarium, then place your choice of substrate over the mesh. I prefer Cresti Life as it is good at holding moisture. I spread that quite deep over the mesh so the plants can have their roots in the soil and have a sturdy grip.
Add the plants either to the soil or in pots. The pots are useful as when you need to change a plant or trim it you just lift the pot out and then put it back when you have finished. Once the soil is in and the plants, add some branches for the gecko to climb on and some horizontal ones so he can rest his tail on the branch. Then add some moss over the soil then add some clean up crew. I use springtails and Tropical wood lice and some dwarf white woodlice, as these will cope with the droppings the crested gecko leaves. Make sure you knock all droppings onto the soil so the clean up crew can clean them up. On top of the moss I usually use orchid bark, as it leaves the surface drier for the crested gecko to walk on. Especially where his food bowls and water bowls are. You can get ledges for food and water which allows the crested gecko to eat up in the viv on the branches
Give the terrarium time to settle down before adding your gecko. Now and then, perhaps 3 times a year, move the bark to the side and dig over the soil, allowing some air in to help break down any ammonia build up, then gently level it and put back the bark chippings.
Now you have to think about food for your gecko. You can feed insects, but make sure you gut load the insects. I feed crickets, so I keep them in cricket proof set ups where they live on Bug Grub (a mix of grain specially for feeding crickets) and using egg crate for the crickets to run over, and I add a slice of butternut squash for them to eat. When you offer a few to your gecko put them in a bucket and add some calcium with out D3 , twice a month shake them in Calcium with D3 , and twice a month shake them in multivits. This helps your Crested gecko grow strong bones. You can check out the calcium sacs in the gecko, they are white spots at the back of his mouth at each side. Also crested geckos love fruit mixes, and I give mine Pangea. This comes in a variety of flavours and you can make it to a consistency like tomato sauce, and some prefer it runny, others like to eat it when it is thicker. Test it out on your gecko and he will tell you. I feed Pangea one day and take it out the next day. Then I give them crickets, and the next day Pangea.
You can also feed Dubai roach small ones, gut loaded and dusted. Or Hoppers but not too big. The insect has to be small enough for the Crested Gecko to swallow it.
Be prepared to take you Gecko to the Exotic Vet if it shows signs of injury or diarrhea or other obvious issues. They can be helped but an Exotic vet is the best vet to help. There are more around in the UK now and the one I use is near Norwich. All Creatures Healthcare. You can find them on Facebook.
This is a first draft and will be updated soon. Come to us on Geckos of Norfolk on Facebook or contact us by email for more advice.